My Trip to Transcarpathian Ukraine (Zakarpattia)

Last year, 2013, I spent a month staying and living with my relatives in their village outside Uzhgorod. I’ve written this blog describing my trip and experiences in Zakarpattia. I’ve also included hundreds of photos I hope you will enjoy, as well as some video and audio recordings of Rusyn folk songs and Prostopinije “plainchant” hymns from Greek Catholic services. I will be returning to Ukraine in September, this time for a 3 month stay, and I will continue writing and posting photo’s.

Monday, July 28, 2014

My "Wish List" of places to see in Transcarpathia

Here is a "Wish List" of places and sights I'd like to see on my return to Zakarpattia. Readers are invited to offer their suggestions and recommendations as well.
1. The Primeval Beech forests of Uzhanskyi National Nature Park.
2. Skole Beskids National Park.
3. Dovbush Cave Complex.
4. Mt. Sokolets
5. Andrashovtsi Lake
6. Voyevodyn Waterfall on River Shypot
7. Sinatoria Ridge
8. Caves near Shchaslyve
9. Kvasovsky Castle
10. Komsomolski Lake
11. Wine tasting in Kidyosh
12. Water mills (for grinding grain) in Imstychevo
13. Khust Castle
14. Borzhava narrow gauge railway
15. Enchanted Valley (Zacharovanyy Dolyna)
16. Antalovetska Glade
17. Vuchkove Geyser
18. Shypot Waterfall
19. Mountain meadow and wild blueberry fields of Polonyna Runa
20. Wooden church in Roztoka (built 1759)
21. Rechka village & making Hutsul clothing
22. Ancient Dacian hillfort at Malaya Kopanya
23. Wooden church in Likitsary (b.1748)
24. Wooden church in Bukovtsevo (1792)
25. Valley of the Daffodils
26. Ancient mines in Hlyboke
27. Water mills and church in Nyzhniy Bystryy
28. Kuklya chalk caves
29. Church of St. Pantalejmon in Kolesarovo
30. Castle in Dyyda
31. Springs in village Solotchyn
32. Salt spring, and wooden church (1753) in Shandrovo
33. Water mill in Velyki Komiaty
34. Kamianka waterfall
35. Castle of Serednye
36. Falcons Rocks at Mt. Skala
37. Church of St. John the Baptist in Muzhievo (first built in 1117)
38. Kankov Castle
39. Saint-Miklos Castle
40. Women's Monastery at Kopashnevo
41. Obava Kamin
42. Churches of Velyki Komyaty
43. Vinogradov monastery
44. Wooden church in Uklyn
45. Gorodilov waterfall
46. Lake, cliffs, and waterfall at Lipovec
47. Chornaya Hora
48. Wooden church in Kolodno (1470)
49. Wooden church in Bukovec (1808)
50. Douglas fir forest of Turi Remety
51. Parenyi Palace
52. Monastery of Boronyava
53. Basket weaving in village Iza
54. Ancient oak trees of Stuzhitsa
55. Lumshory waterfalls
56. Castle of Nyalab in Korolevo
57. Chynadiieve Castle
58. Bronetskii Castle
59. Vyshkove Castle
60. Horiani Rotunda
61. Dovhe Castle
62. Shoenborn Palace
63. Bereg Museum of Weaving
64. Lemko ethnographic museum - Zaricheve
65. Irshava Museum
66. Khust Museum
67. Kolochavskie Skansen
68. "Silver Land" museum in Hrusheve
69. Museum of Beregvidek
70. Ethnographic museum in Bushtino
71. Lumshory mineral water spa
72. Syniak mineral water spa
73. Hoverla Mountain
74. Synevyr Lake
75. The Tatar Pass
76. Trufanets waterfall
77. Wooden church in Abranka (1804)
78. Wooden church in Bukivtsovo (1791)
79. Wooden church in Chetfalvo
80. Wooden church in Chornoholova (1794)
81. 18th Century Wooden church in Deshkovitsya
82. Wooden church in Heten (1793)
83. 18th Century wooden church in Huklyvyi
84. 1658 wooden church of Ivashkovytsia
85. Wooden church in Kolochava
86. Wooden church in Kostrino (1645)
87. Wooden church in Uzhok (1745)
88. Wooden church in Novoselytsia (1669)
89. "Sun Drink" wine and honey festival in Uzhgorod
90. Berehovo wine festival
91. Klynovetska Hora cherry festival
92. Kostylivka Banosh festival
93. Hutsul Brynza festival in Rakhiv
94. Hutsul potato festival in Lazeshchina
95. Uzhgorod Palachinta festival
96. Holubki/Holubtsi festival in Chetfalva
97. Holubki/Holubtsi festival in Velyki Bychkiv
98. Deida campground in Berehovo
99. Rafting on Tisa, Teresva, Rika, and Prut rivers
100. Red Wine Festival in Mukachevo
101. White Wine Festival in Berehovo
102. Slovak Fest in Uzhgorod
103. Butchers' Festival in Hecha
104. Folklore Fest in Bila Tserkva
105. Children's Song Festival in Kireshni
106. Sakura Festival in Uzhgorod
107. Milk River Festival in Stuzhytsya
108. Hay Mower Send-off in Rakhiv
109. Cattle Send-off at Synevyr Pass
110. Blacksmith Festival at Lysychevo
111. Bilberry Festival in Huklyviy
112. Lekvar Festival in Uj Okli
113. Paprika Festival in Mala Dubron

The Primeval Beech forests of Uzhanskyi National Nature Park. (Eco-tourism)

Part of the UNESCO World Heritage Carpathian Biosphere. 40 thousand hectares of primeval beech-spruce-maple forest unique to Central Europe. 1500 species of plants, 85 species of birds, and numerous mammals: Carpathian deer, roe deer, wild boar, badger, weasel, hares, and fox. The Biosphere contains many Kharst caves, near village of Knyahynya. The Uzh valley, where Uzhanskyi Park is located, is also home to largest number of Lemko Rusyns in the Carpathians. Unique monuments of Lemko wooden architecture of 17-18th century have been preserved in the villages of Uzhok, Sil, Kostryno, Sukhyi, Gusnyi. There are mineral springs (varieties “Naftusya”and “Narzan”) in the villages of Stuzhytsya, Kostryno, Sil, Uzhok, and 17 hiking trails. Also ski resorts “Krasiya”, “Shcherbyn”, “Uzhok”.

Here are links to some sites with good photos of region:

https://plus.google.com/photos/116556420106974898332/albums/5487685804691984609?banner=pwa

https://plus.google.com/photos/116556420106974898332/albums/5487712222812625921?banner=pwa

Skole Beskids National Park.(Eco-Tourism)

Still in the Carpathians, but part of the L'viv Oblast rather than Zakarpattia Oblast. Noted for the Hurkalo and Kamenka waterfalls, Skhidnytske mineral water deposits (38 springs), and the Tustan Historical site. Tustan was an early medieval rock fortress and military cave complex. From Wikipedia:

“Fort Tustan - a unique monument of history , archeology, architecture and nature, which is almost unparalleled in Europe . It originated in the ninth century., As an important defense and customs points based tribes of the White Croats . By it to the Carpathian passes took Salt path which transported salt from Galicia in Central Europe. This course was also the intermediate transcontinental road trading silk , held towards China - Portugal . With buyers garrison Tustan has the dutyand provide them protection during transport their goods. Due to geographical placement of this fortress fell into the range of trade relations, as evidenced by the findings in its surroundings Arab coins - Dirham , dating from the IX-XI. In addition, the fort was the main border and customs station between the center of Galicia-Volhynia and Hungary . Tustan rebuilt five times during the ninth and thirteenth centuries., And for the last period of a five-storey building becomes.”

Petroglyphs near Tustan: “ 270 cave paintings, petroglyphs and solar signs. Dated to the middle of IX-V century BC. Solar sign depicted on the rocks in the form of medium-sized rings, which have a hole in the center, sometimes they are double or as eight. Petroglyphs on rocks occur in the form of little men dancing, axes, crosses and more.” “Largest concentration in all Carpathians of cave-images and petroglyphs . Usually these solar signs - symbols of the sun. They have the appearance of circles, discs, and a pair of concentric circles (of about 270) and belong to the early Iron Age. One of the most interesting and most stunning petroglyphs - 2-meter image of a human face. The play of light and shadow gives it an expression of peace and contemplation.

It is believed that this complex is the temple of astronomical calendar-type associated with the movement of the sun. Another type is the petroglyph images rider, wolf and moose are made in the same technique.

There is reason to believe that the petroglyphs depicting axes indicate the remnants of the cult associated with honoring the god of thunder - Perun . With the advent of Christianity, axes were made ideograms crosses represent perhaps the "taming" of pre-Christian symbol.”

Dovbush Cave Complex. (Historical, Archeological, and Eco-tourism)

Located near the village Bubnyshche (Bolekhiv district , Ivano-Frankivsk region) in the Polyanytskoho Regional Park . A unique monument of history and nature. A complex maze of caves, dark ravines, pits, secret passages and paths. Was used in the 12^th century BC for dwelling and protection. There was also a pagan sanctuary and paleo-observatory. In the 17^th and 18^thcenturies AD, the cave complexes were used by Anti- Austrian rebels. Between 1730-1730, was the stronghold of legendary “Oprishok” rebel and bandit Oleksy Dovbush, after whom the rock complex is named.

(post unfinished, still in progress)

My "Wish List" of places to see in Transcarpathia

The Primeval Beech forests of Uzhanskyi National Nature Park. (Eco-tourism)

Here are links to some sites with good photos of region:

https://plus.google.com/photos/116556420106974898332/albums/5487685804691984609?banner=pwa

https://plus.google.com/photos/116556420106974898332/albums/5487712222812625921?banner=pwa

Skole Beskids National Park. (Eco-Tourism)

Dovbush Cave Complex. (Historical, Archeological, and Eco-tourism)

Located near the village Bubnyshche (Bolekhiv district , Ivano-Frankivsk region) in the Polyanytskoho Regional Park . A unique monument of history and nature. A complex maze of caves, dark ravines, pits, secret passages and paths. Was used in the 12^th century BC for dwelling and protection. There was also a pagan sanctuary and paleo-observatory. In the 17^th and 18^th centuries AD, the cave complexes were used by Anti- Austrian rebels. Between 1730-1730, was the stronghold of legendary “Oprishok” rebel and bandit Oleksy Dovbush, after whom the rock complex is named.

(post unfinished, still in progress)

Monday, July 21, 2014

Some tips for travel to Zakarpattia

Here are a few tips on travel to Zakarpattia, which I've learned through experience and through my mistakes:

1. Consider flying into L'viv, instead of either Budapest or Kosice. Budapest is a beautiful city, has a great airport and great train station. But the mistake I made in booking my flight there and back is that I was depending on my cousin Misha to drive me from Budapest to Uzhgorod, and back again. I was not aware of the difficulty Ukrainians have in getting a visa to travel to EU countries, and the expense involved. Misha was not able to drive me back; I had to take the train. The train was pleasant enough, and really cheap. But the train station is 45 minutes from the airport; taxis are expensive. I found that I can fly to L'viv for the same price as Budapest. There's no worry about visa's for relatives providing rides. And train ride from L'viv to Uzhgorod is both inexpensive and scenic.

2. Pack light. I always overpack for trips, and this was no exception. I took 2 checked bags, which cost an additional $100 each way - $200 all together. I DIDN'T NEED IT. I didn't wear half the clothes I braought, and anything you need, you can buy at the bazaars in Uzhgorod, and probably for much less than you would pay in America. I saw some really nice Turkish made silk suits for sale for $100 USD.

3. Try to stay with a local family. There are some people who operate really nice tours - you stay at nice hotels, eat at nice restaurants, and travel with a nice group of fellow Americans with similar interests. That's OK for some people, but I'm not interested in meeting Americans and travelling with them. What's the point of travelling if you're just going to see some sights with other Americans?? There are plenty of families in Zakarpattia who have the extra room and are willing to host a guest, and they could certainly use the extra money. There are also cheap hostels and inexpensive apartments to rent. If you want help with arrangements, send me an email.

Some tips for travel to Zakarpattia

Friday, July 11, 2014

I've uploaded some slideshows to YouTube

I've put together some slideshows and uploaded them to YouTube. Use the links below to view:
Museum of Folk Architecture
Castles in Transcarpathia
Village churches
Sites in Uzhgorod
Uzhgorod to L'viv by train
Radvanka Quarry