Here are a few tips on travel to Zakarpattia, which I've learned through experience and through my mistakes:
1. Consider flying into L'viv, instead of either Budapest or Kosice. Budapest is a beautiful city, has a great airport and great train station. But the mistake I made in booking my flight there and back is that I was depending on my cousin Misha to drive me from Budapest to Uzhgorod, and back again. I was not aware of the difficulty Ukrainians have in getting a visa to travel to EU countries, and the expense involved. Misha was not able to drive me back; I had to take the train. The train was pleasant enough, and really cheap. But the train station is 45 minutes from the airport; taxis are expensive. I found that I can fly to L'viv for the same price as Budapest. There's no worry about visa's for relatives providing rides. And train ride from L'viv to Uzhgorod is both inexpensive and scenic.
2. Pack light. I always overpack for trips, and this was no exception. I took 2 checked bags, which cost an additional $100 each way - $200 all together. I DIDN'T NEED IT. I didn't wear half the clothes I braought, and anything you need, you can buy at the bazaars in Uzhgorod, and probably for much less than you would pay in America. I saw some really nice Turkish made silk suits for sale for $100 USD.
3. Try to stay with a local family. There are some people who operate really nice tours - you stay at nice hotels, eat at nice restaurants, and travel with a nice group of fellow Americans with similar interests. That's OK for some people, but I'm not interested in meeting Americans and travelling with them. What's the point of travelling if you're just going to see some sights with other Americans?? There are plenty of families in Zakarpattia who have the extra room and are willing to host a guest, and they could certainly use the extra money. There are also cheap hostels and inexpensive apartments to rent. If you want help with arrangements, send me an email.
Last year, 2013, I spent a month staying and living with my relatives in their village outside Uzhgorod. I’ve written this blog describing my trip and experiences in Zakarpattia. I’ve also included hundreds of photos I hope you will enjoy, as well as some video and audio recordings of Rusyn folk songs and Prostopinije “plainchant” hymns from Greek Catholic services. I will be returning to Ukraine in September, this time for a 3 month stay, and I will continue writing and posting photo’s.
Please feel free to contact me with questions or comments at christopher.gajda@yahoo.com
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