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Friday, October 10, 2014

Nite Ride in Uzhgorod

Today was a nice warm Indian summer day; sun was shining, warm, but not too hot, really pleasant. We didn't do much today because everyone was tired from yesterday's pig butchering. I went to the bazaar and bought a sleeveless down vest (about $25), while Ivan rendered chunks of pig fat into lard.


Klara had picked the beets and cabbage. I'm surprised by what they do and don't eat from their garden: They don't eat zucchini or eggplant; they consider that pig food. They don't eat lettuce. They grow turnips and beets, but don't eat the greens. But they eat pig offal. 

If I could improve Ukraine's infrastructure, the first thing I would do is work on the water supply. The condition of the roads, and the inconsistency of the water supply are the two most irritating things about Ukraine. There is water in the morning only until 9:00. The water comes on again briefly at 12:00, is shut off by 2:00, and doesn't come on again until 5:00 or 6:00. Today at 5:00 there was enough water trickling from the faucet to allow me to get somewhat clean; but still I almost didn't make it to the "Retro - Bike" shop in town before they closed. I had a bike reserved for today's "Nite Ride"; the cost was 50 hrivna. I asked about weekly rentals; the girl at the shop told me that their rates were 65 hrivna for the first day, 60 for the second, 55 for the third, etc, etc, etc.. By my calculations that comes to about $35 USD for a week, or $5 a day. 

Anyway, I was just in time to rent a bike for the Nite Ride. I thought that the theme was "Charlie Chaplin", but that was the last ride. Tonight's theme was "Zakarpathian Jam".  We had Zakarpaski cookies, and sampled fruit jams. 

I saw a young kid (adult really) wearing a Ukrainian patriotic themed Tee-shirt, and asked where he bought it. He told me that his name was Miraslav, and that he had been at Maidan in Kiev, participating in the protests which drove Yanukovych from power. Miraslav told me that some of his friends were at the ATO, fighting in the volunteer brigade "Azov".


There were several hundred bicyclists at tonight's event:






The ride began about 7:15 PM, just as it was getting dark. I was a little nervous about riding at night when you can't see the potholes.





I estimate that the ride lasted an hour and a half. I can't remember the route we took, but I do remember crossing several bridges. The police did a good job of controlling auto traffic, and I don't think that there were any accidents. After the Ride, there was a concert in the Square. 







I needed to return my bicycle to the rental shop, so I rode to the "Kaktus" bar on the Korzo to wait for the rental shop owner. "Kaktus" has an American West decor, but the food was strictly Zakarpattian, with a few exceptions such as chili. Notice the giant pair of jeans used as curtains:





 I had a small pizza (22 hrivna) and an order of onion rings (8 hrivna):




While I was eating, a girl maybe 10 years old came in, selling artificial flowers, made with beads, for 20 hrivna each. I bought one just because she was a good salesman. The conversation went something like this:

"Did you make these yourself?"
"Yes, I made them"
"I don't believe you...not true"
"Yes, true"
"I'll give you 10 hrivna."
"No, 20."
"I'll give you 15 hrivna"
"No, 20"
"I'll give you 18 hrivna"
"18 hrivna....OK"














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